The Infragram project has used a variety of filters to make Do-It-Yourself infrared cameras, as well as infrared-visible multispectral cameras. This page is about choosing filters for different purposes. **** ## Red vs Blue Both blue and red filters are intended to block most visible light in one channel, to then use that channel for near-infrared light. This way, a single camera can be used to take simultaneous visible light and near-infrared light photos -- one in the red channel, one in the blue channel (we discard the green channel). **Most recent DIY efforts on Public Lab have focused on red filters**, but early on we used blue filters. A red filter (the most common conversion we see on Public Lab as of October 2017) results in vegetation appearing pale blue, and a blue filter typically results in vegetation appearing pale yellow. _Left: pale blue from a RED filter; Right: pale yellow from a BLUE filter. Images by @mathew and [Eclectis students]( ![](/system/images/photos/000/018/533/thumb/Rosco_26_filtered.JPG) ![]( ### Background on filter choice There's a lot of research about this choice here: [notes:red-vs-blue] **** ## Filter sources We've been using Rosco theater gels as filters, and we currently [carry the red Rosco Fire # 19 in the Public Lab store]( Red filters include: * Rosco Fire # 19 Blue filters include: * Rosco # 2007 * Rosco # 87 Also see this research on various Rosco filters: [notes:rosco] And the Rosco website: And an article on the history of Rosco filters: **** ## Exposed negative film To make a camera take **only** near-infrared photos, you can use a piece of exposed negative film as a filter. This will block most visible light (since the red, green, and blue channels are blocked) but will allow infrared light.

by views by likes

See more people near here

Public Lab is open for anyone and will always be free. By signing up you'll join a diverse group of community researchers and tap into a lot of grassroots expertise.

Sign up